AKKI Fall/Winter 2026 Collection: “The Blue Iris” Tells the Story of Three Homelands

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On February 13, New York-based brand AKKI unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026 collection, “The Blue Iris,” at The Living Room within W New York Union Square. Against a backdrop of live piano performance by Indonesian composer and pianist Eunike Tanzil, blue irises inspired by Utagawa Hiroshige’s “Horikiri Iris Garden” bloomed as a manifestation of designer Akki Zhao’s own life story.

From Seed to Bloom: A Journey Through Memory

The collection unfolds through a poetic structure of “seed to flowering.” Opening with Flower Girl, symbolizing the beginning of life, it ultimately evolves into Human Vase, a sculptural silhouette. This narrative progression mirrors Zhao’s own journey. Born in Japan, raised in China, and now rooted in New York—her “third homeland”—the blue iris represents far more than mere decoration for Zhao. It embodies rebirth, memory, and ephemeral beauty.

Respect for craft forms the collection’s core. The bold pairing of Chinese brocade with open-seam construction creates frayed edges that evolve with wear, incorporating the passage of time as part of the design itself. This approach reflects a commitment not merely to preserving heritage, but to reinterpreting it within a contemporary context.

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Eastern Construction Meets Urban Form

Japanese pleating techniques acquired a new expression through Zhao’s hands. 3cm box pleats, accordion pleats, and her original “diamond” pleats were deployed across dresses, outerwear, and tailored pieces. The sculptural S-shaped silhouettes visualize a duality resonant with yin-yang philosophy—East and West, past and present, softness and construction.

The drop-back collars and oversized belts seen on coats and blazers draw inspiration from kimono and obi structures. Traditional Eastern construction is elevated into New York’s urban forms. This delicate sense of balance represents AKKI’s true forte.

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Stories Dwelling in Details

Accessories and finishes were imbued with deep reverence for heritage. Jade, freshwater pearls, porcelain buttons repurposed from antique Chinese vases, silk-tied ribbons, and brocade trim. Knitwear incorporated Japanese washi paper yarn, while leather goods featured origami-inspired crane-shaped handbags.

The color palette centers on cobalt blue iris, expanding into multilayered blues. Dark brown, soft pink, yellow plaid, and quilted red evoke the garden scenes depicted in Hiroshige’s ukiyo-e, reimagined for today.

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Dialogue of Craft: Cross-Industry Collaborations

The collection also garnered attention for multiple collaborations, expanding the possibilities of craft. Ginza-based high jewelry maison AKIO MORI provided jewelry support. Customized sneakers with PUMA incorporated Japanese transfer beads, Chinese jade, freshwater pearls, and brocade patches, blurring the boundaries between sportswear and high fashion.

Additionally, Bang & Olufsen created H100 headphones reconstructed with Japanese pleated fabric and traditional ornamentation. Furthermore, wooden UFO vases by Yamaichi Rokuro, a woodworking studio in Nagiso, Nagano Prefecture, added poetic accents to the spatial presentation.

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Celebration of New Beginnings

Having relocated her atelier to Tokyo in 2025 and rebuilt her supply chain, Akki Zhao’s debut collection presentation at New York Fashion Week marks the opening of a new chapter. Having studied at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) and launched the brand with partner Justin Lin, Zhao is now establishing a unique perspective as a bridge connecting East and West, past and future.

“The Blue Iris” is a delicate yet powerful story woven from the designer’s own memories and love for three homelands.

View all the looks from AKKI Fall/Winter 2026 collection in the gallery below.

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