On June 22, Dries Van Noten presented its Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear collection during Paris Fashion Week Menswear.
Van Noten, the founder and creative director of the Maison, retired from his position with this collection, ending his nearly 40-year career.
Van Noten chose the former site of a huge factory in the La Courneuve district of northern Paris as the venue for his last show. Before the show began, there was an hour-long reception party, which was attended by Anne Demeulemeester and Walter van Beirendonck, once known as the “The Antwerp Six,” along with Van Noten. Many other well-known designers, including Pierpaolo Piccioli, Thom Browne, and Alexandre Mattiussi, also came to see Van Noten’s historic moment.
His friends in the industry, whom he has worked hard with, and his fans who love the Maison, must have been filled with mixed emotions at the thought of the end of a chapter that he has built.
“My dream was to have a voice in fashion,” he wrote in a press statement announcing his retirement. That dream came true. Now, I want to shift my focus to all the things I never had time for,” said Van Noten reflecting on his long journey.
The show began solemnly, and a total of 69 looks, 16 for women and 53 for men were presented on a shimmering runway covered in silver foil.
First to walk the runway was model Alain Goussin, who also opened the 1991 Dries Van Noten show. Goussin appeared in a long black coat, khaki pants, and flat sandals. Then, following these looks were beautiful coats with sophisticated tailoring, cool sheer tops and pants, and shirts in shiny brocade fabrics.
Oversized floral print shirts were beautifully enhanced by an overcoat of crinkled polyamide fabric, adding a touch of sparkle. Neon colors such as yellow, choral, and silver accented this stunning ensemble, making it more than just vacation wear.
Toward the latter half of the show, gold and silver gilded shirts and pants, and black double-breasted overcoats were introduced, closing the collection in a glittering mood befitting a finale.
Van Noten’s retirement marks the end of an era in the fashion world, but his accomplishments will live on forever. At the end of the show, the entire audience showed their appreciation and respect for him by giving him a standing ovation.
This touching moment is symbolic of the inspiration and influence Van Noten has had on so many people over the years. The fashion world will continue to watch for his next steps.
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear Collection in the gallery below.
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