10月2日（現地時間）、パリ ファッションウィーク の4日目にあたる夜、リック オウエンス（Rick Owens）が自身の最新ウィメンズコレクション「TEMPLE（テンプル）」を発表した。会場はパリ16区のパレ・ド・トーキョー（Palais de Tokyo）。向かいのパレ・ガリエラ美術館（Palais Galliera）では、彼の回顧展「Temple of Love 」が同時開催され、まさにオウエンスにとって象徴的な夜となった。
“グラマーとスリーズ”、そしてアメリカ的率直さ 今回のコレクションは、6月に発表されたメンズコレクションと同じく「TEMPLE」と題されている。オウエンスは公式ノートの中でこう語っている。
「この展覧会は、ハリウッド・ブルバードで私が探し求めてきた“グラマーとスリーズ（俗悪さ）”の追求を辿るものです。皮肉なことに、その果てにパリの美術館で展示することになるとは思ってもみませんでした。私がこれまで行ってきたことは常に、“ヨーロッパ的美学の濃密な洗練”への魅了を、アメリカ的な率直さというフィルターを通して表現することでした。」
その言葉の通り、今回のショーは“洗練と粗野”という二律背反が共存する世界観が体現された。会場には「厳しい時代のための強い服（Tough clothes for tough times）」というメッセージが掲げられ、モデルたちは噴水の中を進みながら、崩壊した世界を生き抜く戦士のように歩いた。
工業的素材と官能の融合 コレクションを象徴するのは、GRS認証ナイロンやリサイクルナイロンチュール、ヘビーレザーといった“インダストリアル素材”だ。中でも注目すべきは、パリのラバー・フェティッシュ・アーティスト、マティス・ディ・マッジョ（Matisse Di Maggio）とのコラボレーション。ラテックスに浸したパネルの上にひとつひとつ手作業でスパンコールを配置し、乾燥後に何度も磨き上げるという独自の手法によって、クラスト感のある質感が生まれた。
また、ロンドンのデザイナー ストレイ・トゥケイ（Straytukay）が手がけたレザーは、トスカーナ州サンタ・クローチェ・スル・アルノで植物タンニンなめしが施され、切り裂かれ、フリンジやスタッズで再構築。そこには、“硬質な素材が呼吸する”という矛盾の美学が息づいている。
抑制されたヌードと構築のデザイン また、オウエンスが常に探求してきた「身体の構築」は今季も健在だ。透けるほど薄いレイヤーを重ねたアーキテクチュラルなドレスは、裸体を想起させながらも、それを完全に抑制する。幾何学的なラインが身体をなぞる様は、まるで厳格に制御された血管のようである。
さらに、前シーズンの誇張されたショルダーは、光沢あるメタリックな彫刻へと進化。そこに垂れるのは、GOTS認証シルクシフォンの柔らかな塊。さらに、パリのランジェリーブランド リヴィー（Livy）とのコラボによるブラトップが、オープンなタンクドレスの下から覗くなど、硬さと官能が絶妙に交錯した。
音楽と哲学──“Somebody to Love”が響く夜 ショーの終盤には、1970年代にミニマルな電子音楽を切り開いたスーサイド（Suicide）とのコラボレーションによる楽曲が鳴り響いた。
ちなみに、ショーノートの最後には、ジェファーソン・エアプレイン（Jefferson Airplane）のグレイス・スリック（Grace Slick）の言葉が引用されている。
「真実が嘘だとわかったとき
2026年春夏ショーのフィナーレを飾ったのは、オウエンス自身の手描きによる出生図がプリントされたルック。ブラックとホワイトの二体で登場したその造形は、彼の人生そのものを象徴する“自己への祈り”のようであり、ファッションを超えた存在論的な美しさを放っていた。
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week リック オウエンス 2026年春夏コレクションの全てのルックは、以下のギャラリーから。
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2026 Ready To Wear Fashion Week Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti / NOWFASHION
Copyright © 2025 Oui Speak Fashion. All rights reserved.
Related
![Oui Speak Fashion Japan (OSF)® [ウィ スピーク ファッション ジャパン]](https://ouispeakfashion.com/jp/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/OSF-Website-header-with-®.png)
