McQueen Spring/Summer 2026 — Seán McGirr Explores “The Elegance of Desire”

On October 5, McQueen unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection during Paris Fashion Week.

The show took place at the prestigious Tennis Club de Paris, where a monumental maypole-like installation—composed of 8,000 meters of jute ribbon and natural materials—hung above the audience. Designed by The Armagh Rhymers, an Irish folk collective known for its storytelling traditions, the set blurred the line between nature and culture, evoking a pagan ritual space celebrating renewal and liberation.

This season, McGirr presented an experimental dialogue between instinct and reason, exposing the layered complexity of human nature.

At the opening of his collection notes, McGirr posed a question: “We resist nature, suppress our instincts, and live under the guise of order. But what happens when we let go—when we surrender to our deepest desires and impulses?”

That philosophical question was inspired by Robin Hardy’s 1973 cult film The Wicker Man—a story of humankind returning to nature through primal ritual. McGirr reinterpreted that narrative through the contemporary lens of fashion.

The Tension Between Desire and Discipline

The show opened with a series of looks in deep navy and sky blue, setting the tone for McGirr’s exploration of control and release. A navy corset top paired with an asymmetrical skirt revealed skin with calculated precision, sculpting the body like a living statue. Military jackets, cropped and stripped of their authority, transformed from symbols of power into instruments of seduction. The uniform, once a signifier of obedience, was reimagined through McGirr’s lens as a gesture of liberation from control.

Corsetry, too, was elevated from a symbol of restraint to one of empowerment. Crafted in white leather and jacquard, the pieces acted not as bindings but as armor for expression. Lace-up fronts and asymmetrical cuts traced a visual rhythm between tension and sensuality, capturing the very essence of ordered desire.

McGirr’s aesthetic was clearly reflected in his meticulous choice of materials. Lightness and texture intertwined, as sharply cut wool mohair hopsack, sliced printed leather, metal chainmail, and gold-thread embroidery took center stage.

These elements were juxtaposed with washed cotton twill, delicately rendered floral jacquard, and translucent sunburst silk habotai, creating a unique interplay where structure met fluidity and tension coexisted with poetry.

Amid the show’s fiery intensity, a floor-length, ethereal dress stood out in quiet contrast. Watercolor-like florals seemed to bleed softly across the fabric, while weightless silk rippled with the air. As light shifted, its delicate hues transformed, revealing a poetic tension between structure and fragility, evoking both the transience and renewal of life.

This season’s accessories saw the revival of the archival De Manta bag—reborn as the new Manta. Adorned with corset lacing, fringing, and hand-carved talisman charms, each detail carried a story of protection and sensuality.

Meanwhile, the iconic Horn Heel from Spring/Summer 2003 was reimagined in leather and suede, appearing as mules, boots, and sandals. By infusing these archival symbols with new energy, McGirr breathed fresh life into McQueen’s legacy.

Fire, Nature, and Ritual

For the finale, a series of gowns embodied the force of living flame. Threads shimmered under the lights, vibrating through the air like sparks in motion.
A luminous yellow voluminous dress, radiant as captured sunlight, followed—its brilliance bridging the energy of fire with the promise of rebirth. Then came cascades of gold feathers and fringe, culminating in a pure white gown whose calm presence seemed to cleanse the space, enclosing the remnants of fire in serene stillness.

The soundtrack, composed by A.G. Cook, layered techno beats with the natural sounds of water, earth, and fire, driving the show’s tension to its dramatic peak.

McQueen as the Fusion of Instinct and Intellect

Under Seán McGirr, McQueen continues to channel its provocative spirit while embracing a deeper maturity and reflection. His vision proposes a new kind of “primal elegance,” oscillating between wildness and restraint. By letting the opposing forces of desire and order collide head-on, McGirr delivers a message both timeless and urgent: True freedom begins when we cease to resist nature and surrender to our inner impulses.

This McQueen is not about destruction, but rebirth—a pursuit of beauty that burns quietly, endlessly, with the creative fire that defines the house’s soul.

Explore all the looks from the McQueen Spring/Summer 2026 Collection in the gallery below.

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