Meruert Tolegen Fall/Winter 2026 — Sculpting the Body, Framing Memory

On February 11, Meruert Tolegen unveiled her Fall/Winter 2026 collection at New York Fashion Week. This season further deepened the sculptural silhouettes that have become central to the brand’s identity, while expanding the relationship between material and body into something more poetic and charged with tension.

Set against a dark wood interior of solemn grandeur, the looks stood with the stillness of portraiture. Accompanied by a deconstructed rendition of Mozart’s Lacrimosa and Bach’s Partita No. 2 in D minor, the show brought forward a dialogue between construction and deconstruction—expressed not only visually, but sonically.

Reinterpreting the Pannier: Damask as Architecture

Defining Fall/Winter 2026 is a series of sculptural forms crafted from weft-woven floral damask. In strapless corset dresses and off-shoulder silhouettes, volume expands outward from the waist in a manner reminiscent of panniers. Yet this is not historical nostalgia. It is structure as spatial design—garments built not merely to decorate the body, but to shape the air around it.

Front lace-up detailing introduces vertical tension, while the outward swelling at the hips forms a distinctly architectural line. The contrast between delicate floral motifs and forceful structural framing oscillates between romanticism and modernity.

In long coats rendered in the same damask, the expression becomes more restrained. A cinched waist and clean vertical fall convey quiet authority. Within classical tailoring, subtle distortions are deliberately embedded.

Herringbone and “Monkey Fur”: Structure Meets Instinct

Wool herringbone emerges as another key axis of the collection. In a grey long coat, a gentle swell at the waist softens the silhouette while maintaining sculptural precision. Traditional coating fabric is manipulated through shifts in balance and proportion, elevating it into dimensional form.

In stark contrast stands the black look crafted from synthetic hair imitating “Monkey Fur.” Though primal in texture, it is paired with corsetry that anchors the garment in structural discipline. Outer volume confronts inner construction, creating a tension that questions the boundaries between instinct and control.

Hand Knit and the Introduction of Cashmere

Hand knitting is particularly prominent this season. Cashmere—new to the brand—joins signature alpaca and mohair elements. Textured surfaces become ornament in themselves, allowing softness and structure to coexist.

A knit vest layered over a pink plaid shirt juxtaposes domestic warmth with sharply tailored trousers. Meanwhile, a minimalist look featuring a black pleated skirt and knit top emphasizes vertical lines and silhouette purity. By stripping away excess decoration, the collection foregrounds the integrity of form.

The Philosophy of Wearing Space

Meruert Tolegen’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection does not simply adorn the body—it constructs space around it. The swell of pannier-inspired forms, the woven discipline of herringbone, the tactile density of synthetic hair, the intimacy of hand-knit textures—each element carries presence without excess.

Quiet yet powerful. Ornate yet restrained.

This season refines the balance between garment structure and emotional resonance. The result is clothing that stands like sculpture—composed, deliberate, and enduring.

All looks from Meruert Tolegen Fall/Winter 2026 are available in the gallery below.

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