Thom Browne Presents Fall 2026 Collection in San Francisco

On February 6, American fashion brand Thom Browne unveiled its Fall 2026 collection at the Legion of Honor museum in San Francisco. The venue was set beneath The Three Shades, a monumental bronze sculpture by Auguste Rodin. Staged two days before the Super Bowl, the show unfolded against the backdrop of San Francisco’s rolling hills and classical architecture, symbolically capturing the brand’s distinctive worldview.

The concept of the show centered on the “relentless pursuit of excellence.” NFL players DeAndre Hopkins and Justin Jefferson appeared as models, while actor Yahya Abdul-Mateen II served as the narrator. Together, they shaped a presentation in which intellect, physicality, and spirituality intersected through a carefully orchestrated performance.

New Proportions Shaped by Layering

In this collection, Thom Browne further deepened its signature approach to layering. By stacking coats and parkas over tailored pieces and knitwear, the brand redefined classic silhouettes and generated new proportions. Anchored in the house’s signature grey, the looks highlighted a striking contrast between materials and structure.

All seasonal fabrics were custom-developed and reinterpreted exclusively for the collection. These included wool flannel and cashmere, compact suiting fabrics woven from high-twist wool yarns, sculptural cashmere Aran cable knits, and Donegal mohair tweed blends. Ultra-finely shrunken cricket-stripe vests also appeared, underscoring the precision and craftsmanship at the core of the collection.

Outerwear Balancing Function and Gravitas

Outerwear stood out for its bold volume and presence. Waterproof cashmere blouson-style flight jackets were shown alongside parkas crafted from melton wool and heritage-inspired oilcloth. Slim moto and racer jackets were paired with gun club tweed shell trench coats, as well as duffle coats made from sheepskin, suede, and double-faced burgundy melton, emphasizing strong and structured shoulder lines.

Down-filled layers included ripstop vests, jacket-length cashmere coats, and flannel utility jackets. Fair Isle knits in merino wool and cashmere were reworked with intarsia motifs of embroidered snowflakes and mountain landscapes, introducing a sense of humor within an otherwise rigorous and architectural construction.

The Evolution of Tailoring and Accessories

Tailoring composed of sport coats, back-strap trousers, and knee-length skirts played a key role in accentuating material textures. A gun club check ensemble in wool piqué was elevated by a long pea coat finished with woven leather herringbone detailing, bringing the look to a refined conclusion.

Footwear saw the return of longwing brogues and boots equipped with hiking soles, alongside new quilted silhouettes in ankle-length and knee-high versions. The soles were reinforced with metal toe bumpers inlaid with red, white, and blue accents, combining Goodyear welt construction with Norwegian double stitching to enhance durability and water resistance.

In bags, the signature Bolton bag was reinterpreted in distressed leather and supple calfskin. A newly designed Bolton backpack also debuted, featuring side pockets, a top flap, and brass lock closures that further emphasized the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship.

Collaboration with ASICS Announced

In the finale, models appeared with coats slung over backpack straps, symbolizing the beginning of a long journey ahead. Thom Browne also announced a collaboration with ASICS SportStyle as part of its ongoing homage to sports. During the show, models wore exclusive Thom Browne designs based on ASICS’ classic GEL-KAYANO 14™. Further details will be revealed at the product launch scheduled for March 2, 2026.

All looks from the Thom Browne Fall 2026 collection can be viewed in the gallery below.

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