The Story Behind TELMA Spring/Summer 2025 Collection: A Conversation with Terumasa Nakajima
View Gallery
40 Photos
One of the brands that garnered attention at this season’s Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo Spring/Summer 2025 is TELMA, which won the “JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD 2025.” This time, the brand held its first runway show at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo.
TELMA, designed by Terumasa Nakajima, stands out with its use of original fabrics produced in Japan’s local regions, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection featured bold floral motifs and prints, expressed in bright hues like white, orange, lime, yellow, and pink, capturing the cheerful and light atmosphere of spring.
The striking orange Chester coat, embellished with cosmos fabric rendered in delicate, watercolor-like strokes, evoked the sensation of a graceful spring breeze. Moreover, TELMA’s unique print patterns cast an enigmatic, kaleidoscopic illusion, inviting the audience to feel as if they were being immersed in the designs with each step the models took along the runway.
The voluminous silhouette of the skirt, crafted from layers of organza, spread like blooming petals with the arrival of spring, adding an elegant flutter to the hems of long coats and dresses. The tops and dresses featured sheer fabrics as the centerpiece, while accessories such as sunflower-themed necklaces and brooches added an extra accent. The harmonious blend of patterns, materials, silhouettes, and layered designs beautifully embodied TELMA’s unique world of elegance.
Terumasa Nakajima’s journey as a designer began in earnest in 2010. After studying design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, his graduation collection received high acclaim, making him the first Japanese designer in history to win both the “Christine Mathys Award” and the “Louis Award.” This achievement led to his entry into DRIES VAN NOTEN that same year, where he worked as an assistant to Dries Van Noten on women’s design, gaining invaluable insights into the techniques and design perspectives unique to European maisons.
Later, Nakajima returned to Japan to deepen his understanding of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, and in 2014, he joined ISSEY MIYAKE. There, Nakajima honed his skills in silhouette expression based on the concept of “one piece of fabric” and was involved in material development in collaboration with Japan’s local textile regions. In 2020, he achieved independence and, in 2022, launched his very own brand, TELMA.
After his debut, Nakajima’s talent blossomed rapidly, and he is now regarded as a promising next-generation design leader. He also won the grand prize in this year’s “NEXT BRAND AWARD,” a program established in 2022 by JFWO to nurture and support emerging talents.
At the award ceremony held after TELMA’s runway show on September 2nd, JFWO Chairman Tsuyoshi Shimoji presented Nakajima with a commemorative crystal. Nakajima expressed his joy, saying, “TELMA is a brand born from the belief in the potential of fashion during the pandemic. I owe this award to the team, the textile regions, and everyone who supported us.”
Afterward, Nakajima shared with OSF his thoughts on the creation of this season’s collection and his candid feelings after the runway show, as follows.
ー “TELMA” was started from the Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Could you tell us what led you to start the brand and the brand concept?
TELMA was launched amid COVID uncertainty, but it was founded on believing once again in the power of clothing and craftsmanship. I’m always fascinated by the wisdom and traditional techniques passed down in the regions of Japan through generations and in awe of the genuine attitude and passion of all the people involved in its making.
ーThis was your first runway show at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo. How did you feel after the show, and what were the reactions from the attendees?
I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to show the collection to so many people. I only had about two months to prepare for the show after the award was announced, so I had to reorganize the entire collection that had been created up to that point because initially it wasn’t planned to be presented in a runway format, but I was able to present what TELMA was all about. This could only be done thanks to such dedicated support and cooperation of everyone involved in the making. I could not sleep for days on end, but with the support of everyone involved, it all came together in the end.
ーCould you share the thoughts behind your latest collection and the process of its creation?
This season I had the opportunity to show my collection to a larger audience than ever before, so in a sense the collection was like a self-introduction. I wanted to showcase the range of what TELMA was about rather than set a single theme for the collection. I wanted to express the essence of TELMA, which is that “clothes are complete only when worn by a person,” so for example, the silhouettes of the garments are designed to show the unique characteristics of the wearer’s bone structure, the amazing craftsmanship from rural Japanese areas, and the depth of color and expression that is typical of Japan.
ーHow do you collaborate with domestic production areas in Japan for material development? Please tell us about the specific process and the key points you focus on.
First I create a mood board for the collection and consider the atmosphere of the material. For example, I think about the textures of the materials, like whether it should be “bouncy” or gently “falling,” and once the composition has been determined to a certain extent, I select a partner/atelier with the knowledge and skills to bring out the best of the material. I then visit them to share my vision with the craftsmen and discuss the details, such as the shape of the yarn and the number of twists. What is always important is that the creation of materials is never the goal. The goal is to provide a “new sensation” for people when they wear TELMA.
ーFinally, could you tell us about the future outlook for TELMA?
I want to grow the brand to be a “global niche,” balancing business and creativity.
【TELMA Spring/Summer 2025 Collection】
See all the looks from the TELMA Spring/Summer 2025 Collection below.
