Balenciaga, known for its radical, street-infused presence, now welcomes “the poet of couture” Pierpaolo Piccioli. What kind of ripple effect will this bring to the spirit of the brand?
On May 19, Kering officially announced that Pierpaolo Piccioli has been appointed as the new Creative Director of Balenciaga. He will assume the role on July 10, 2025, with his debut collection scheduled for October 2025.
Piccioli, who has long served as the Creative Director at Valentino, is renowned for redefining the house’s aesthetic. Appointed in 2008 as co-creative director alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, and taking sole leadership in 2016, he guided the house with emotional and poetic expression, reigniting global appreciation for haute couture. His work has earned him a reputation as one of the most poetic designers in contemporary fashion.
Now, the question arises: how will Piccioli’s vision transform Balenciaga, a house that reemerged under a street-driven, disruptive approach?
Alongside the announcement, Piccioli released a personal letter, writing: “Every new story has a lot to do with the path that brought us there, the humans we are now and the experiences we have already lived.”
In the letter, he noted that the first photo he ever uploaded to Instagram was of a 1967 wedding ensemble by Cristóbal Balenciaga, adding: “Don’t know if I should take it as a sign, what I know is that now I can see the bigger picture.”
He also expressed respect for those who came before him—Cristóbal Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière, Alexander Wang, and Demna—and continued: “Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to all the people who have paved the way. Cristóbal, Nicolas, Alex, Demna. In all its phases, while constantly evolving and changing, it has never lost track of the House’s aesthetic values.”
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Regarding Piccioli’s appointment, Kering’s Deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini stated, “His mastery of Haute Couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the House,” while also expressing her gratitude for Demna’s contributions in shaping Balenciaga’s contemporary identity over the past ten years.
Gianfranco Gianangeli, CEO of Balenciaga, added: “His creative vision will thrive, and he will perfectly interpret the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, building on the House’s bold creativity, rich heritage and strong culture.”
From Street to Couture — A Radical Shift or a Seamless Fusion?
Under Demna’s direction, Balenciaga has spent the past decade crafting a provocative, digitally fluent identity. Known for runway spectacles infused with political and social commentary and pioneering work in virtual fashion spaces, the brand has become a global reference for avant-garde luxury. The decision to bring in Piccioli — a designer often described as a poet of couture — signals the beginning of a bold new chapter.
How will Piccioli, who once said, “beauty is about being right,” express beauty through the lens of Balenciaga? And how will the brand’s radical spirit of experimentation merge with his delicate, humanistic sensibility? With his debut collection set to be revealed this October, anticipation is already building.
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