Located in Paris’s historic Marais district, the French department store BHV Marais opened a new permanent store for the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant Shein on November 5. BHV described the initiative as “a challenge to welcome a new customer base.” The store covers approximately 1,200 square meters, with neatly arranged clothing and elegantly displayed tables that create a refined atmosphere, departing from Shein’s usual mass market image.
However, the decision has sparked strong controversy in France. The prestigious department store Galeries Lafayette issued a statement saying that the move was “incompatible with our values” and argued that any partnership with Shein “violates contractual obligations with the Société des Grands Magasins.”
Several brands that had long operated within BHV also decided to withdraw in protest against Shein’s arrival. Among them, the most high-profile departure is that of Agnès b., a pillar of French fashion. The brand’s founder and designer, Agnès Troublé, strongly opposed the decision and announced that she would permanently close her in-store boutique.
“Shein Is the Worst Kind of Fast Fashion”
Troublé expressed deep concern about the social and environmental impact of ultra-fast fashion. She argued that the business model built on rapid production and consumption harms not only labor and ethics but also the planet. She also noted that social media trends have accelerated impulsive buying among young people, driving a pattern of overconsumption that strays far from the essence of fashion.
In Chile’s Atacama Desert, mountains of discarded clothing from fast fashion brands continue to accumulate, and even charitable organizations refuse to accept them. To Troublé, this waste represents the real cost of cheap fashion, a visible reminder of the consequences of unchecked consumerism.
Scandal Over Childlike Sex Dolls
Earlier this month, on November 3, Shein faced global criticism after allegedly selling sex dolls resembling children. France’s consumer watchdog condemned the listings, saying there was “little doubt that these products possess child pornographic characteristics.” In response, the company permanently banned the sale of all sex dolls across its global platforms, froze related vendor accounts, and temporarily removed the adult products category. All listings and images associated with such products have been deleted. The company also announced that it would strengthen its monitoring systems worldwide to prevent illegal or policy-violating activities.
Known for her strong ethical stance, Troublé reacted with disgust to the scandal, calling it “a revolting and tragic matter.” She made it clear that her brand would not associate itself with such practices. Her long-standing philosophy, “Buy less, but choose better,” directly opposes the disposable consumption culture that Shein represents.
For Troublé, who still wears clothing she designed more than 30 years ago, the decision to leave BHV is a continuation of her values. “Our contract runs until the end of January, but within weeks, the store will be permanently closed. This decision is irrevocable,” she said, her words conveying both conviction and quiet resolve.
Shein’s Expanding Physical Presence in France
Shein has designated its BHV Marais location as its first permanent store in France and announced plans to open additional branches in Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers, and Limoges. Having built its success on an online-first model, the company is now accelerating efforts to establish a physical retail network across France. Through this expansion, Shein aims to strengthen its brand visibility and reinforce its presence in the European market.
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