On October 30, designer Phoebe Philo’s eponymous brand PHOEBE PHILO released its long-awaited first collection.
Philo was the creative director of Céline for about nine years and was a skilled designer who breathed new life into the Maison, which had lost its momentum. She also served as creative director of Chloe from 2001 to 2006, contributing to the brand’s revival. However, Philo was not seen in the public eye for about six years after leaving Céline.
In the midst of this mysterious mood, a new fashion brand, PHOEBE PHILO, was suddenly announced in July of this year. At the time, Phoebe Philo’s release date and other details were not made public, but many fans clamored for her return, registering their e-mail addresses at the official website to receive brand update notifications.
Dropped with much anticipation, Phoebe Philo finally released its first collection. It is a collection of sophisticated designs and understated elegance that she embodied during her Celine days.
The materials, the items, the silhouettes – it’s what she once loved, updated for 2023. Cashmere overcoats with double vents in the back, loose pantsuits, oversized bomber jackets, thick satin blouses, and bell-sleeved dresses. One of the key items, the bomber jacket, has an hourglass waist that accentuates its silhouette. Also, high-waisted wool pants have a long zipper from the hem to the waist, which is both an actual seam and a provocative eroticism.
For accessories, studded belts and cool soft leather bags caught the eye. In fact, leather is sprinkled throughout much of the collection, including bomber jackets and deep veil coat dresses. Loafers, a bold reworking of a classic design, also feature square toes with rounded corners. These are available with heels of varying heights.
Within hours of the launch, most of the products were sold out on the website. It is clear that Philo’s debut collection has met the high expectations of the public and has been a huge success.
The first collection, “edit,” has approximately 150 pieces and will be released in three sections through the end of this year. The second release is planned for the spring of 2024, but details have not yet been finalized.
The brand is also committed to sustainability and has pledged not to overproduce, which has become a problem in the fashion industry in recent years. Because of this policy, the brand plans to continue releasing collections according to its own schedule, rather than the traditional fashion calendar.
In a statement, the brand said “We are determined to create a fashion house that is socially and ecologically literate. We are committed to minimizing waste and avoiding overproduction by producing notably less than anticipated demand.”
The sizes of the products range from XS to XL. Prices range from $450 for goggle-like sunglasses to $25,000 for a shearling coat with fluted sleeves. Jackets average about $4,000 and bags $5,000.
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