The Paris Haute Couture Week Fall/Winter 2023-24 Collection was held from July 3 to July 6, 2023. In this article, we will introduce a collection of beautiful couture creations by the top maisons that were shown in the glamorous and fascinating capital of fashion.
Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli is a brand that is growing in popularity on the red carpet, with many women not only renting the brand as an outfit but actually purchasing it. The popularity of the brand is evident in the audience dressed in full-body Schiaparelli sitting in the front row of the Fall/Winter 2023-2024 show.
The collection led by Daniel Roseberry was supposed to be the second part of a trilogy inspired by “The Divine Comedy. The previous season’s “The Inferno” theme, a collection inspired by true-life stuffed animals that drew the ire of animal rights activists, was changed for this collection from “Purgatorio” to “… And the Artists” to avoid negative connotations, in consideration of the riots in Paris.
Despite this change, Roseberry presented a collection featuring silks and cloud-like draping designs, paying homage to artists such as Lucian Freud, Yves Klein, and Jack Whitten, who were favored by Maison’s legendary founder, Elsa Schiaparelli. Gold accents and monochrome looks evoked the spirit of surrealism. Elegant swirling collars added to coats, mirrored mosaic suits, and wooden accessories were featured.
Dior
Dior’s white-toned looks mix and sway with lightness and purity.
In this haute couture collection, the mythic, lofty silhouettes that have become synonymous with Women’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri were highlighted by simple beauty. Although the lineup sometimes felt a bit monotonous, it was a true celebration of timeless beauty and feminine grace. Inspired by the work of artist Marta Roberti, who created the set for the show, Chiuri’s creations also evoked ancient Roman garments such as tunics, peplums, stoles, and capes.
Chiuri has been celebrating femininity and feminism since the first day she stepped into the world of Dior, and once again she succeeded with her poetic ode to the goddesses of our time.
Thom Browne
Thom Browne participated in Haute Couture Week for the first time to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Maison.
The haute couture show, which marked the brand’s debut, featured many plays and metaphors. The runway resembled an opera stage and was filled with many characters, including model Jordan Ross, who crossed the runway in a tufted jacket and pigeon-headed fascinator, flapping his arms.
In front of an audience of 2,000 made up of cardboard cutouts, the spectacularly reborn gray suits, exaggerated make-up, mesmerizing optical illusions, and theatrical headpieces were unveiled.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli held a runway show for Fall/Winter 2023 Couture at the Maison’s newly established headquarters. The show expressed the effortless elegance of classic haute couture style.
The show opened with Ella Richards who wore a black bustier dress with a layer of white organza underneath. Each piece reflected baroque silhouettes in dresses and voluminous draped fabrics in subdued colors of cupcake cream, black, silver, blush, and soft green. Black gowns layered with tulle in dark hues were juxtaposed with softer compositions such as a strapless pink feather dress, a dynamic contrast that fit every definition of high fashion.
The show ended with the Greek “Olympia Look,” a divine gown in tulle that provided a bright, fresh finale.
Chanel
Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2023-24 Haute Couture collection was presented by Creative Director Virginie Viard on the banks of the Seine with the postcard-perfect Eiffel Tower in the background.
Models sashayed down the cobblestone streets in Maison’s classic tweeds, floral appliqués, little black dresses, kaleidoscopic floral patterns, and fruit baskets laden with bouquets. The glamorous Parisian extravaganza also featured long overcoats, sheer blouses, tweed skirts, and chiffon dresses.
The runway fully expressed the essence of the French girl and Chanel’s traditional style of elegance, regal cool, and understated beauty.
Balenciaga
Demna, creative director of Balenciaga, presented her 52nd haute couture collection at the Maison’s headquarters. In addition to Demna’s husband, a variety of guests gathered at the venue, including rapper Cardi B and Academy Award winner Michelle Yeoh.
The collection presented encompassed looks from all genres, from streetwear with viral impact to sophisticated, classic, and elegant pieces reminiscent of Maison founder Cristóbal Balenciaga’s rigorous approach to design.
Viktor& Rolf
The surreal and avant-garde Viktor & Rolf celebrated its 30th anniversary this year. The surrealist taste in fashion seems to have accelerated even further with this haute couture show.
Instead of the typical oversized designs, the couture collection featured a number of swimsuit-focused looks. The collection featured a number of large ribbon motifs, a signature of the Maison, as well as floating garments reminiscent of the Spring 2023 collection. In addition, meme-like leotards embroidered in 3D with buzz-worthy catchphrases such as “I Wish You Well,” which seemed to pay homage to actress Gwyneth Paltrow, were also a focus of attention.
Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino Fall/Winter 23-24 Haute Couture show was held at the famous Chateau de Chantilly in northern Paris.
Reflecting the words of the Roman sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi, known as a pioneer of minimalism, “Simplicity is complexity resolved”, this collection took an infinitely simple approach to couture. The runway was marked by simple, utilitarian garments that moved with the body, with streamlined shapes, flat shoes, and light fabrics that conveyed the momentum and serenity of the wearer. Shimmering crystal earrings adorned every look, and vintage Levi’s 501s were transformed by golden embroidery.
The show’s finale was met with a standing ovation from the guests.
FENDI
Fendi’s artistic director of couture and womenswear Kim Jones said, “we wanted to concentrate on the achievement of fluidity, drape and shape through couture techniques, bringing these elements together with the attitude of today,”
Gorgeous gowns adorned with black diamonds and gemstones resembling rubies and sapphires were inspired by and reflected the new Fendi High Jewelry collection designed by Delfina Delettrez.
At the same time, the juxtaposition of hard and soft, the elimination of the notion of costume, and the suppleness of women’s dresses were expressed in a line of flesh-toned dresses.
