Louise Trotter’s Debut Marks a New Chapter for Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2026
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On September 27, Bottega Veneta unveiled Louise Trotter’s debut collection at Milan Fashion Week.
Spring/Summer 2026 has already been dubbed a “season of chaos,” with no fewer than 15 new creative directors making their debuts. Yet even amid this unprecedented wave of change, it was Trotter who commanded the spotlight—becoming the first woman in the house’s 60-year history to lead its creative vision. The fashion world still vividly remembers the acclaim that greeted Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin Klein during New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025, but the excitement surrounding Trotter’s arrival at Bottega Veneta surpassed even that fervor.
Adding to the buzz, invitations to the show arrived in the form of seamless, leather-cut handbags—a strikingly original gesture. Each miniature bag embodied the maison’s uncompromising craftsmanship, and its distinctive design quickly became a recurring presence across social media.
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The Intersection of Craft and Modernity
As the show began, the opening looks showcased outerwear rooted in the brand’s DNA: intrecciato. A black, high-gloss leather coat, while evoking traditional weaving techniques, was elevated through a special treatment that created a scale-like, almost serpentine three-dimensionality. Under the lights, geometric patterns seemed to emerge and recede, while the exaggerated shoulders amplified its strength and volume. A touch of white feather offered a delicate counterpoint, softening the overall impact with a note of lightness.
Meanwhile, jackets reinterpreting the intrecciato motif introduced a dialogue between classicism and modernity. Cinched waists paired with wide trousers created a balanced silhouette, while the richly textured leather caught the light with a shifting brilliance. It was a striking embodiment of a new kind of luxury—one to be felt both visually and tactilely, transcending the quiet refinement once associated with Bottega Veneta.
Flowing dresses with straps that slipped elegantly from the shoulders, along with designs that emphasized the waistline through hidden inner structures, carried both strength and delicacy, vividly capturing the fluidity of femininity.
Even the classic trench coat was reimagined with a contemporary edge. While rooted in its traditional silhouette, it was revitalized through carefully chosen materials and nuanced detailing. Rendered in neutral tones such as beige and gray, yet crafted from leather and treated textiles, the trench balanced gravitas with modernity. Subtle intrecciato accents on belts and lapels wove the brand’s signature into the design, a quiet nod to its heritage amid a new vision.
The Allure of Recycled Glass Fiber
Perhaps the most emblematic pieces of the collection were the knits and capes crafted from recycled glass fiber. With a rich, fur-like pile that remained unmistakably artificial in texture, the material shimmered like shards of glass under the lights, shifting in shape and color as it moved across the runway.
Fiery orange and red tops blazed like flames, while deep blues and metallic tones evoked the play of light across water. Their ethereal quality resonated with feather and fringe embellishments, transcending the boundaries of Bottega’s signature “quiet luxury” and delivering an experience that spoke directly to the senses.
Heritage and Innovation in Accessories
In accessories, Trotter turned back to the brand’s roots. She reinterpreted the iconic Lauren clutch, first carried by Lauren Hutton in the 1980 film American Gigolo, presenting refreshed sizes and colorways on the runway. The moment reached a symbolic peak when Hutton herself appeared in the front row, clutching a vivid red version—an emblem of the collection’s significance.
Footwear, meanwhile, pushed into daring new territory. Pointed-toe clogs and oversized intrecciato sandals stood out with sculptural forms. Silver and natural beige clogs traced architectural lines, injecting modern tension into otherwise classic ensembles. Minimal white slip-ons lent balance to voluminous silhouettes, while striking red flat sandals commanded attention with every step.
The meticulousness of craft, the boldness of silhouette, and the tactile intensity of materials all signaled Louise Trotter’s decisive pivot—from quietude to undeniable presence. Drawing on the full breadth of her career experience, she infused Bottega Veneta with a distinctly feminine sensibility and a fresh vitality that reorients the brand’s future.
Explore all the looks from the Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2026 Collection in the gallery below.
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