On February 27, Gucci presented the “Gucci Primavera” collection at Milan Fashion Week — Demna’s first official runway show for the house.
The Setting: A Theater of Marble and Myth
The venue was nothing short of monumental: a museum-like space encircled by marble statues, where colonnades evoking ancient Greek and Roman heritage stood alongside white sculptures illuminated by spotlights, receiving guests with an overwhelming sense of stillness and grandeur.
In attendance were actress Demi Moore, Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, Romeo Beckham, Shawn Mendes, global brand ambassadors Lino (Stray Kids) and NingNing (aespa), alongside Park Gyu Young, and Jay Park. A quiet electricity filled the room well before the show began.
The soundtrack, curated by loki, wove five distinct musical genres into a single aesthetic. Together, the visual and sonic dimensions constructed the world Demna envisions for Gucci.
Demi MoorePhilippine Leroy-Beaulieu Ningning Jay Park Romeo Beckham and Shawn Mendes Lino
Where White Begins
The collection opened with the ultimate seamless mini dress, crafted in white hosiery fabric. Charged with the mood of a femme fatale, it was a declaration — the kind of opening look that leaves no ambiguity about what the show intends to say.
What followed was a considered range of propositions: a grey spaghetti-strap midi dress, a sharp single-button black blazer paired with slim trousers. The idea of one jacket styled with a skirt, leggings, or trousers — carrying the wearer from office to bar — spoke to the breadth of who Gucci is speaking to.
For the men, looks built around a black leather-effect fitted T-shirt with a GG-buckle belt translated the body directly into silhouette. The sensation of fabric fused to skin resonated sharply with the collection’s underlying theme — a hymn to the human form. Oversized all-black suiting and open-chest satin-effect sets rounded out a portrait of masculinity where power and sensuality coexist.
The Seamless Technology of the Body
At the heart of this collection lies a dialogue with the body. Invisible heat-bonded edges, curved hemlines, seamless construction that approaches the skin as closely as fabric can. This is not a display of technical achievement — it is a pure obsession with making the wearer look beautiful.
A modern track dress merging tracksuit and gown, leggings fused with trousers, a hyper-fitted piece combining jacket and top: the pursuit of new clothing forms that Demna has long explored finds a new context here, filtered through the codes of Gucci.
The Adonis Looks: Born from Statues
The latter half of the show was a direct homage to the sculptures surrounding the runway. A white T-shirt and loose trousers draped like Greek marble, a slender white dress evoking Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The “Adonis looks” — translating the Renaissance ideal of the perfectly proportioned body into contemporary fashion — stand as the most poetic chapter of the collection.
From those sculptural whites, the show pivoted to looks wrapped entirely in silver metallic fabric, as though the models themselves were being transformed into statues mid-stride. A modern mythology, born on the runway.
Leather, Fur, and the Street
The collection’s more commercial register was equally compelling. A biker jacket, a fitted bubble blouson, a bomber trimmed with voluminous feathers that spilled around the wearer’s face — balancing presence with softness. Low-waisted jackets and trousers carried a street sensibility, while denim-based casual looks retained the quiet quality that is distinctly Gucci. Horsebit loafers trimmed with fur and GG monogram boots threaded a sense of organic continuity throughout.
Accessories: Redefining the Icons
The iconic Gucci Bamboo 1947 was refined into a sleeker silhouette, fitted with a supple bamboo handle combining multiple leathers. An archival clutch was reimagined at a compact scale, sized for a smartphone and the essentials.
In footwear, the Manhattan — Demna’s first sneaker for Gucci — merges a minimal basketball shoe shape with the effortless slip-on ease of a loafer, crossing the boundary between sport and dress with quiet confidence. The Giovanni and Cupertino loafers, meanwhile, shed the stiffness typical of leather shoes in favor of a genuinely comfortable wear.
Finale: The Myth Concludes
The show’s closing moment belonged to Kate Moss. Her shimmering black long-sleeved turtleneck gown read as restrained elegance from the front — until she turned, revealing a dramatically open back and a sparkling GG-logo thong beneath.
It was her first appearance on the Gucci runway since the Tom Ford era of the 1990s — some 30 years ago. If this collection carried the subtext of reimagining that decade’s Gucci, then choosing Kate Moss to close it was the only answer that made sense. At 52, her runway presence was undiminished, and the room felt it.
Demna spoke of the collection in his own words: “Presenting it in a monumental, museum-like space, surrounded by marble statuary, expresses how I view this incredible House.”
He continued: “This collection, and my overall vision for Gucci, is built around a sense of pragmatism: products that can be enjoyed by a variety of people, that enrich their lives and make them feel great, that can stand on their own, without the need for pseudo-intellectual justifications.”
The show opened before statues, and Demna’s answer was clear. Gucci must transcend time — and yet belong entirely to the people living right now. By the time Kate Moss reached the end of the runway and paused, that question had already been answered.
Explore all the looks from the Gucci Fall/Winter 2026 collection in the gallery below.