On September 8, Helmut Lang presented its first collection since the appointment of Peter Do as its new creative director.
Designer Do graduated from FIT in 2014 and later received the LVMH Graduate Award. He then joined Phoebe Philo’s Celine design team, where he was responsible for the creation and development of the runway collections. Since the launch of his eponymous line in 2018, the modern minimalism created by Do has been well-received by many in the fashion industry, and expectations for his new Helmut Lang have risen very high.
When the appointment was announced, Do said, “No one embodied radical thinking more definitively than Helmut Lang,” “It is my deep honor to be entrusted with ushering in the next chapter of Helmut Lang’s legacy,” he added.
The Spring/Summer 2024 collection, unveiled with such anticipation, was dominated by wearable formal wear in black, symbolic of New York style. Blazers and pants were sharply tailored and accented with fuchsia and yellow straps reminiscent of the seat belts of yellow cabs on the streets of New York. In addition, geometric color patterns, graphic T-shirts, printed denim, and a variety of leather shoes brought a new vibrant, and modern element to Helmut Lang’s collection. The main color palette was neutral, but there were some flamboyant neon colors woven into the mix.
Do’s debut marks the beginning of an exciting new era for a brand that has long struggled without a unified vision or leadership. The success Do has achieved so far in the fashion world is due to his innate technique, and the question will be whether he can effectively apply his talents to the repertoire of other brands in the coming seasons. However, after seeing this collection, I am convinced that Do’s desire to “make clothes that people can wear” will be reflected in Helmut Lang’s comfortable fit and dressy silhouettes, and will be accepted as a new wardrobe to adorn people’s daily lives.
Check out all looks from Helmut Lang’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection below.