Leo Prothmann Unveils Autumn/Winter 2026 Collection “CABAÑA”

On February 23, Leo Prothmann presented his Autumn/Winter 2026 collection “CABAÑA” at Jurema Terrace inside The Mandrake Hotel in London. Composed as an all-genders offering, the collection marked a significant milestone for the brand—its first inclusion on the official London Fashion Week schedule.

This season draws inspiration from Prothmann’s time spent in San José del Pacífico, Mexico. Humid air, mist-covered terrain, and colors shaped by climate and time informed the collection’s visual language. Pigments such as mud, mustard, oxblood, teal, and forest green were translated into architectural structures and garment construction.

Between Structure and Collapse

The silhouettes this season explore the tension between construction and softness. Oversized, structured forms transition into a deliberate slouch, while curved shoulders maintain their engineered shape before gently falling toward the cuff—allowing structure and fluidity to coexist within a single garment.

The brand’s signature “shell” form evolves into a new expression. Quilted leather parkas, modular outerwear, and morning capes reminiscent of ritual at first light define the lineup. Strips of offcut leather are arranged in bands and reinforced internally with boning to maintain architectural integrity. Prothmann refers to these pieces as “cages,” with each equidistant leather strip applied by hand.

Leather as Language

Materially, the brand collaborated with Nene Valley Leather, specialists in upholstery hides. Only by-product leather was used, balancing durability with suppleness. The philosophy echoes furniture designed to live quietly in a space for decades—garments conceived to age and endure over time.

Additionally, in partnership with Inversa Leathers, the collection incorporates Silverfin fish leather sourced from invasive species removed from fragile ecosystems. This experimental approach reframes environmental imbalance through craft and material innovation.

Expansion Through Collaboration

Several collaborations extend the collection’s universe this season. With Dr. Martens, Prothmann reworked the Jadon boot into a cargo-pocketed hiking silhouette, combining waterproof functionality and breathability while retaining the brand’s cultural legacy.

With Cubitts, he created a limited-edition resin sunglasses design, translating the collection’s curved language into an everyday object. Jewellery was provided by Ollivion, offering sculptural forms inspired by ancient artifacts and mythological references.

Styling was directed by Edda Gudmundsdottir, who shaped the balance of color and proportion so that contrasts feel lived-in rather than imposed.

Further collaboration with Carmela Dias of London College of Fashion resulted in contour pieces and thermals designed to support the garments’ structural framework, deepening the brand’s ongoing exploration of foundational construction.

The memory of natural landscapes, the relationship between structure and the body, and a sustained exploration of leather grounded in durability. For Autumn/Winter 2026, Leo Prothmann presents a more defined articulation of his sculptural leatherwear philosophy.

All looks from Leo Prothmann Autumn/Winter 2026 are available in the gallery below.

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