Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo Spring/Summer 2025 took place over six days, from Monday, September 2 to Saturday, September 7. As in previous years, the main venues for the shows were Shibuya Hikarie and Omotesando Hills. A total of 33 brands participated this season, with 26 brands showcasing their collections physically and 7 brands presenting them digitally.
In this article, OSF highlights the latest collections from select designers who participated in Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo Fall/Winter 2024, featuring key moments from the 33 participating brands.
SHINYAKOZUKA
Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, SHINYAKOZUKA unveiled its Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Tokyo’s National Stadium.
The theme for this season was “picturesque or die,” and designer Shinya Kozuka revealed that the starting point for the collection was his picture book “Iro wo Wasureta Machi” (The Town That Forgot Color), which he wrote 15 years ago. Kozuka revisited and rewrote the book from his current perspective, incorporating it into the vision for this season’s show.
Before the show began, guests were handed show notes in blue envelopes, each meticulously hand-painted by Kozuka himself. Inside, Kozuka shared his thoughts, noting that this collection wasn’t about returning to his roots but was instead a first step toward the brand’s next 20 years.
The show opened in silence, with simple looks featuring a white knit and a black matching set. However, as time passed, the collection gradually introduced more vibrant colors, transforming the runway into a world full of hues.
Models wore crowns reminiscent of The Little Prince or carried colorful balloons like entertainers, while others had the appearance of artists lost in their creative worlds. These elements sparked the audience’s imagination, creating a sense of a continuously expanding world as the show progressed.
Through this collection, Kozuka expressed deep emotions for his close friends, and family, and his passion for fashion, using art as a medium. The primary color of the show, blue, was a tribute to his friends, embodying their essence and the relationships they share. Additionally, a cat, originally illustrated in Kozuka’s picture book, made an appearance as a symbolic figure.
Bridging the gap between his younger self and who he is now, Kozuka remarked, “I don’t want people to see my past emotions, but rather, I want them to feel my current attitude.” This statement encapsulated the essence of the collection, reflecting Kozuka’s dedication to honoring his past experiences and friendships while embracing the new expressions he can create today. It was a collection that skillfully intertwined the past and present, showcasing Kozuka’s unique perspective and creative evolution, a chievable only in this moment.
MITSURU OKAZAKI
Mitsuru Okazaki showcased its Spring/Summer 2025 men’s collection at the gallery “Plat” in Harajuku. Titled “Madness,” the collection strongly expressed designer Mitsuru Okazaki’s interpretation of “moments of madness” in humans through the details and styling of the garments. While maintaining experimental design elements, the oversized silhouettes and refined details merged to create an avant-garde style.
The show opened with the sound of thunder and rain, and the first look was a striking red matching set, symbolizing passion. Paired with shoes that seemed splattered with blood, the look emitted an intense energy, evoking a sense of life force.
One of the standout details this season was the elongated oval cutouts. This bold design was elegantly incorporated into jackets, shirts, and pants. The precise shape of the cutouts highlighted elegance, and it felt as though this pursuit of elegance slowly transformed into madness.
Another notable feature was the use of decorative buttons. The buttons on the jackets and pants were adjustable, allowing the wearer to style the garments in two ways: a neat, polished look with the buttons closed, or a more relaxed and effortless vibe with them undone, encouraging individual interpretation.
As the storm subsided, the show ended in silence, with the final look being a white version of the same red matching set that opened the show. The atmosphere shifted dramatically from chaotic to serene, as birds chirped and filled the venue with a sense of calmness. This finale left a feeling of purity and peace, as though everything had been reset.
MARCUS COVINGTON
The newly established brand Marcus Covington, which debuted in April 2024, made its first appearance at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo this season, leaving a strong impression with its bold presence.
Under the theme “SMASH!!!! Full-throttle attention seekers that make everyday life serious,” the show was set to an upbeat soundtrack, with the runway dramatically positioned to give the audience a sensation of looking upward, adding a sensational atmosphere to the event.
The collection centered around oversized jackets and pants, giving off a sporty vibe, while delicate, sheer lace was boldly incorporated into the inner layers, creating a fusion of sportiness and femininity. The color palette featured subdued tones like black and navy, complemented by metallic silver and gold, along with pastel shades such as cream, yellow, and pink, adding a light, spring/summer-appropriate brightness.
The jackets and pants were adorned with multiple belts, straps, and zippers, enhanced by distressed details and frayed hems. This gave the pieces an avant-garde, combat-ready look, while also evoking a sense of protective armor, both physically and emotionally.
Designer Marcus Ichikawa Kazutoshi infused this collection with deep emotions, drawing inspiration from the passing of his grandmother, who was like a mother to him, his personal struggles with design, and the intense emotions stirred by his relationships with others. As he intended, the collection exudes a blend of intensity, joy, and tenderness, capturing a multitude of emotions woven into the garments.