On December 11, John Galliano announced via his Instagram that he is stepping down as the Artistic Director of Maison Margiela after 10 transformative years. The news quickly spread throughout the fashion industry, stirring a mix of shock and anticipation.
The Final Masterpiece: The Artisanal Collection
In January 2024, John Galliano unveiled Maison Margiela’s Artisanal Collection, a show that left an indelible mark on the fashion world. This collection, which featured innovative lace embellishments, the emotionally resonant “emotional cutting,” and designs that pushed the boundaries of material potential, set a new standard for the industry.
However, this extraordinary creation became Galliano’s final contribution to Maison Margiela. His departure, announced just before the brand’s Christmas party, likely brought both joy and a tinge of sadness to the employees, marking the end of an era.
John Galliano: A Decade of Revival and Innovation
Galliano joined Maison Margiela as Artistic Director in 2014, marking his comeback to the fashion world after a period of scandal and self-reflection following his departure from Dior. For Galliano, this role was a chance for creative rebirth—a rare opportunity to rediscover his artistic voice. Under his leadership, Maison Margiela reached new heights with its avant-garde designs, and the brand’s overall revenue saw significant growth.
According to OTB Group, the parent company of Maison Margiela, the brand achieved a 23% year-on-year revenue increase in 2023. Since Galliano’s appointment, revenues have grown from approximately €100 million annually in 2014 to nearly $500 million today. This growth has been particularly driven by the expansion of directly operated stores in Asia, with 43 new locations opening in Japan, China, and South Korea over the past four years. Additionally, iconic items like the Tabi boots and collaborations with Gentle Monster have captivated a younger audience, significantly boosting the brand’s recognition worldwide.
Beyond design, Galliano infused Maison Margiela with a deeper cultural and ethical ethos, transforming it into “the most cutting-edge couture house.” He consistently explored the intersection of fashion and social commentary, championing genderless collections, LGBTQ+ rights, and mental health advocacy. His film Mutiny articulated these values as a manifesto for inclusivity and the courage to challenge societal norms. “Mutiny,” he said, “culminated my work and verbalized our sociopolitical messaging—our beliefs that trans rights, queer rights, gender equality in the workplace, anti-racism, and mental health advocacy had to be at the center. It was a manifesto for this brave new generation—a testament to the courage to stand up proudly and fearlessly for what you believe in.”
Renzo Rosso, the founder of OTB Group, described working with Galliano as “one of the most profound and impactful experiences of my life.” In his statement, Rosso praised Galliano’s vision, noting how it enriched the company’s culture and elevated Maison Margiela to new creative and financial heights. “He mentored me and showed me his vision, enriching me culturally and allowing me to bring some of that vision and culture to the rest of the Group,” Rosso said.
Galliano, reflecting on his time at the house, expressed gratitude for the “safe space” that allowed him to thrive and build a supportive family of collaborators. “Gratitude to my fashion family for this life-saving creative moment and the safe place we have built together,” he said. While his next steps remain undisclosed, Galliano remarked, “All will be revealed when the time is right.” Rosso also hinted at future collaborations, emphasizing the amicable nature of their parting.
The Future of Maison Margiela
Although no official announcement has been made about Galliano’s successor, speculation has centered on Glenn Martens, the Creative Director of Diesel. Rosso has described Martens as “a designer with the mind of a couturier,” expressing high expectations for his innovative potential.
John Galliano’s decade at Maison Margiela leaves a profound legacy—a testament to creativity, resilience, and the power of second chances. As the brand looks to its future, the fashion world eagerly awaits the next chapter in its storied journey.
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