Proenza Schouler Showcases Marine Elements and Bold Fringe in its Spring/Summer 2025 Collection

On September 4, Proenza Schouler held its Spring/Summer 2025 runway show ahead of the official New York Fashion Week calendar. The show took place in the historic New York Mercantile Exchange building on Harrison Street, which, for the first time since its construction in 1884, served as the venue for a fashion show.

The latest collection by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez marks a departure from last season’s “quiet luxury” and returns to the essence of the brand. McCollough explained that, after several seasons of stripping the brand down to its “core,” they had reached a point where there was nothing left to pare back, and so they decided to rebuild the garments anew.

Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection features a variety of comfortable, well-crafted pieces that showcase the brand’s signature elements: expert tailoring, craftsmanship, vibrant colors, leather, and prints, all grounded in the designers’ roots in American sportswear.

Hernandez also mentioned that the collection was inspired by the works of American artist Barnett Newman, whose use of lines, stripes, and geometric shapes lent a maritime essence to the collection. The collection skillfully incorporated preppy marine elements, such as billowing striped shirt dresses, marine-striped knit ponchos, and relaxed sailor pants.

One standout piece was an oversized poncho designed to evoke the sails of a ship, featuring a square, scarf-like silhouette that elegantly draped over the body. Additionally, sleeveless striped tops paired with buttoned sailor pants and flowing floral print dresses highlighted beautiful, dynamic silhouettes, offering glimpses of skin in a graceful, alluring way.

The second half of the show was dedicated to evening gowns, with fringe taking center stage. Strapless long fringe dresses and fringe crafted from air-filled silk organza tubes were showcased. Other highlights included a remixed version of the brand’s signature jersey muse dresses and a playful fuchsia feather-embroidered mini skirt peeking out from beneath a glossy black coat, all featuring bold applications of fringe in various forms.

The color palette was minimal, with shades of black, ivory, and soft lavender. However, the delicate fringe detailing added movement and sophistication as the models walked, creating a sense of elegance with every step.

For footwear, the collection featured fringe-adorned low-heel T-sandals and sporty monogrammed sneakers. The designers also collaborated with footwear brand Sorel, debuting rugged Caribou mules and Chelsea boots, which added a tough, stylish accent to the sophisticated women’s looks.