Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear: “STONE” Reimagines Protection for the Modern World

On June 25, Rick Owens unveiled his Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Collection, titled STONE, at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris.

Set against the backdrop of global uncertainty and growing social tension, the collection explored a fundamental question: how do we respond to threat? Through a fusion of technical innovation, exceptional craftsmanship, and the sculptural aesthetic that has long defined the house, Owens presented a contemporary wardrobe centered on themes of protection, the body, and authority. Rather than relying on the language of armor, STONE reinterpreted protection through lightweight materials, architectural silhouettes, and an uncompromising vision of modern menswear.

“STONE” as a Response to the Modern World

Accompanying the show was a statement from Rick Owens that encapsulated the collection’s central idea:

“We are all processing menace.

Some of us arm.
Some of us train.
Some of us turn away.
Some of us turn to stone.”

With STONE, Owens was not merely referencing hard surfaces or an austere aesthetic. Instead, the title became a metaphor for the different ways individuals confront fear, uncertainty, and vulnerability. Throughout the runway, this philosophy materialized in sculptural tailoring, enveloping outerwear, and lightweight fabrics that balanced strength with restraint.

Tailoring That Reimagines Authority

One of the collection’s defining motifs was the epaulette—a traditional symbol of authority.

Previously presented with a heavier presence, the detail was reinterpreted this season with a lighter, more refined approach suited to Spring/Summer dressing. Leather epaulettes appeared as removable elements on silk-cotton poplin coats and jackets, transforming military-inspired references into contemporary expressions of confidence and structure.

Tailoring featured sharply defined shoulders crafted in compact silk crepe woven by Bonotto, the historic Italian textile mill based in Veneto. The result was a striking balance between architectural precision and fluid movement, reinforcing the house’s signature sculptural language while maintaining an unexpected sense of lightness.

Sculptural Forms Rooted in Craftsmanship

Behind the collection’s futuristic appearance was an extraordinary level of artisanal craftsmanship.

Technical jogging suits combined traditional poly-cotton jersey with lightweight leather and recycled nylon girdle fabric knitted in Germany, merging athletic functionality with Owens’ distinctive fetish-inspired aesthetic.

Voluminous cabans were constructed from recycled polyester duchesse and silk duchesse fabrics woven on vintage looms in Como, Italy, where production is limited to approximately 25 meters per day, underscoring the meticulous craftsmanship behind each garment.

Elsewhere, sheer latex tank tops reminiscent of 1920s beaded lingerie were handcrafted by Paris-based latex artist Matisse Di Maggio, with each piece requiring more than 35 hours of work by four artisans. Florence Druart created the latex capes, while Straytukay produced the foam-and-latex tensegrity chaps, highlighting the collaborative expertise that shaped the collection.

The concept of tensegrity—introduced by architect and visionary Buckminster Fuller in the 1960s—served as another conceptual pillar of the collection. Based on the balance between compression and tension, the structural principle mirrors the mechanics of the human body itself, reinforcing the collection’s ongoing exploration of physical form and architectural construction.

Exploring Performance Through adidas Collaboration

Another major highlight of the season was Rick Owens’ continued collaboration with adidas.

The partnership introduced a new high-performance yet accessible technical running shoe scheduled for release in 2027, while adidas’ CLIMACOOL technology was integrated directly into the collection.

Inflatable jackets and shorts equipped with internal fans were designed to function as a personal cooling system when paired with an ice vest, aiming to lower a runner’s core body temperature before competition. Rather than treating performance technology as a separate category, Owens incorporated it into the visual language of luxury fashion, positioning functionality itself as a design element.

Addressing sustainability, Owens also stated: “I admire adidas’ ambitious environmental goals, having been named to the CDP Climate A List for the second year in a row and placing among the top 4% of companies scored globally. I’ve always said that while we still have a ways to go confronting the environmental crisis, we can all start somewhere and aim higher.”

In a time when uncertainty has become part of everyday life, Rick Owens proposed something beyond protection as armor. Through lightweight construction, exceptional craftsmanship, and cutting-edge performance technology, STONE envisioned a new relationship between the body, clothing, and the contemporary world. The collection stood as a quiet yet powerful reflection on resilience, offering a vision of menswear that is both deeply conceptual and strikingly relevant.

Explore every look from the Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Collection in the gallery below.