On June 20, Satoshi Kuwata unveiled SETCHU’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection during Milan Fashion Week Men’s. Titled Caught in the Nets, the collection expanded upon the brand’s signature approach to origami-inspired construction while introducing the motif of the net as a new lens through which to explore the relationship between body and garment.
At its core, the collection questioned the boundaries between protection and exposure, completion and incompletion, masculinity and femininity.
The show opened with a striking look featuring an oversized net crafted from black leather cords draped over the model’s head and body.
Concealing the body while simultaneously emphasizing its silhouette, the look evoked the presence of a genderless siren from mythology. The net, which became the collection’s defining motif, was constructed using the traditional Japanese tying technique known as the Japanese Square Knot (Manmusubi). Formed through the intricate interweaving of multicolored leather cords, the net connected memories of Kuwata’s travels in Gabon with Japanese craftsmanship, adding another layer of depth to the collection’s narrative.
Rectangles and Circles
At the heart of the collection’s silhouettes was the dialogue between two geometric forms: the rectangle and the circle.
Having long explored the flat, architectural qualities found in origami and traditional Japanese garments, Kuwata introduced circular openings as a new design element this season. Circular cutouts appearing throughout tops and dresses transformed flat surfaces into three-dimensional forms, blurring the line between structure and fluidity.
Rather than assembling garments through conventional construction, the pieces appeared to draw form directly from the fabric itself. The resulting silhouettes represented a natural evolution of SETCHU’s ongoing exploration of construction and spatial design. Through the interplay of rectangles and circles, Kuwata further developed the conversation between flatness and volume that has become central to the brand’s identity.
The Beauty of Incompletion
Another notable aspect of the collection was its embrace of incompletion. Trousers and coats featured deliberately exposed basting stitches, pattern lines, and traces of the garment-making process that would traditionally remain hidden.
Rather than simply showcasing craftsmanship, these details suggested an appreciation for clothing as something constantly evolving, finding beauty in the process of becoming rather than in a finished state.
Footwear also played a significant role in the collection’s narrative. Inspired by the traditional Japanese geta, the thick-soled designs reinterpreted a familiar cultural reference through a contemporary lens. The result embodied one of SETCHU’s defining themes: the fusion of Japanese heritage with modern tailoring and design.
As the show progressed, looks featuring sheer fabrics and net-like constructions emerged. Flowing chiffon and fluid drapery enveloped the body without restricting it, reinforcing the collection’s exploration of freedom and protection. Nets, circular openings, and sculptural silhouettes all converged around a shared inquiry into how garments shape—and are shaped by—the body.
By allowing opposing ideas to coexist, SETCHU once again expanded the possibilities of contemporary dress. What emerged was not a definitive statement, but a reflection of a world in which boundaries—between masculine and feminine, finished and unfinished, protection and exposure—continue to dissolve.
View all looks from the SETCHU Spring/Summer 2027 collection in the gallery below.
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