On June 28, Tokyo-based brand ssstein unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection during Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Drawing inspiration from the stillness and shifting light of a lakeside at daybreak, founder and creative director Kiichiro Asakawa presented a collection shaped by nuanced color exploration and meticulous material research. Across both menswear and womenswear, the collection further evolved the brand’s signature minimalist aesthetic and dedication to craftsmanship.
A Soft Color Palette Inspired by the Calm of Daybreak
The starting point for the collection was a quiet moment Asakawa experienced by a lakeside at dawn.
Asakawa recalled: “Time seemed suspended. In the lightly misted air, I anticipated the first rays of the sun illuminating me, layering colours, as though I were a blank canvas. I pictured a spectrum of delicate hues emerging from the pale golden light.”
A few days later, he encountered Remembered Words, a series of watercolor paintings by Roni Horn, whose accumulation of colored dots evoked the very same sensation. That encounter ultimately informed the collection’s overall approach to color.
The palette centered on light yellow, almond green, blush pink, and powder blue, complemented by muted earth tones including greige, taupe, and reddish brown. On the runway, soft beige and brown looks were punctuated by vivid accents of red, green, and blue, introducing a subtle rhythm to the otherwise restrained color story.
Material Innovation Defines the Collection’s Color Expression
At the heart of ssstein’s design philosophy lies an ongoing exploration of materials as much as color itself.
A custom-developed nylon fabric created by Italian mill Olmetex was garment-washed to achieve a softly aged appearance and airy hand feel. For deerskin, Asakawa selected drum dyeing rather than pigment dyeing, resulting in a rich, even tone and supple texture.
The newly developed soft denim, composed of cotton and hemp, combines ring-dyed yarns that create subtle variations of light and shadow with an over-dye process that produces muted color nuances. Together, these techniques express the delicate chromatic depth the brand continually pursues.
The collection’s only pattern is a grey-toned check woven by the historic British mill Moon using a wool-linen blend, adding understated depth to the otherwise monochromatic wardrobe.
Lightweight Silhouettes Rooted in Classic Tailoring
One of the defining characteristics of the collection was its relaxed approach to classic tailoring. Structured garments maintained clean architectural lines while leaving generous space around the body, resulting in silhouettes that felt refined yet effortless.
Boxy corduroy coats, leather blousons, and lightweight jackets retained their sculptural form without appearing heavy, while wide-leg trousers, shorts, and long skirts introduced movement and ease throughout the collection.
Lightness was further expressed through washable silk shackets, as well as coordinated looks featuring linen skipper shirts and easy trousers. Rather than relying solely on fabric choice, the sense of weightlessness extended naturally into the styling itself.
For womenswear, side-slit long skirts and running shorts introduced contemporary proportions beyond traditional menswear-inspired dressing. Despite presenting both menswear and womenswear, the collection maintained a cohesive identity through its consistent use of color, texture, and balanced silhouettes.
Quiet Luxury Expressed Through Invisible Details
The collection also revealed a meticulous attention to details that remain largely unseen.
Selected garments were lined with silk-rayon flannel, enhancing both comfort and refinement. Accessories included a hand-stitched seven-fold tie, presented as one of the season’s signature pieces.
The tie was styled alongside shirts crafted from ultra-lightweight wool woven by renowned Italian mills Canonico and Delfino, reinforcing the collection’s dialogue between classic tailoring and contemporary lightness.
A Tokyo Brand Strengthening Its Presence in Paris
Founded in 2017, ssstein has earned international recognition for its contemporary tailoring and sophisticated casualwear.
Following its runway debut at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo for the Autumn/Winter 2023–24 season, the brand received the FASHION PRIZE OF TOKYO 2025. The Spring/Summer 2027 presentation marked ssstein’s fourth runway show in Paris and featured both menswear and womenswear.
Built upon the quiet atmosphere of daybreak, meticulous material development, and a contemporary reinterpretation of classic silhouettes, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection demonstrated that restraint can be just as compelling as spectacle. Rather than relying on dramatic statements, ssstein once again reaffirmed its distinctive aesthetic through thoughtful craftsmanship and refined details.
Explore every look from the ssstein Spring/Summer 2027 Collection in the gallery below.
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