French fashion brand Lemaire is facing unexpected backlash in China following the release of a new visual campaign. Imagery from its debut olfactory collection, “Objets Senteur,” has drawn criticism for evoking historical associations with the Qing dynasty, prompting widespread discussion across Chinese social media. On April 26 (local time), the brand issued a statement acknowledging a lack of cultural sensitivity.
Summary
- Lemaire’s debut olfactory collection “Objets Senteur” sparked discussion across Chinese social media
- Visuals featuring braided objects and scissors were interpreted by some as referencing Qing-era “queue” hairstyles and the queue order
- The brand issued a statement in Chinese and English on April 26, acknowledging insufficient cultural sensitivity
- The timing is significant, as China remains a key market in the brand’s global growth strategy
The Visuals at the Center of the Controversy
At the heart of the discussion is “Objets Senteur,” Lemaire’s first exploration into scent-based design. Unlike traditional fragrances, the collection presents scent through handcrafted objects, positioning fragrance as a sensory and artistic experience rather than a conventional product.
The controversy, however, stems from a series of campaign visuals released alongside the launch. In particular, images depicting models interacting with long, braid-like objects, as well as still-life compositions placing these objects alongside scissors, were interpreted by some Chinese users as evoking historical imagery.
These interpretations reference the “queue” hairstyle imposed on men during the Qing dynasty. Known as the “queue order,” the policy has historically been associated with cultural assimilation and control. The visual resemblance led some viewers to draw parallels between the campaign imagery and this historical context, fueling broader discussion.
According to reports, related topics trended on Weibo over the weekend, amplifying debate over the brand’s creative intent.
Apology and Public Response
In response to the backlash, Lemaire released an official statement on April 26 in both Chinese and English. The brand acknowledged that it had not sufficiently considered cultural context and sensitivities in its creative process.
However, according to Jing Daily, the response was not viewed as sufficient by some audiences. Critics pointed to the lack of direct reference to the historical issue and the absence of concrete corrective actions, such as removing the campaign imagery.
Renewed Brand Risk in the Chinese Market
Lemaire has positioned China as a key market in its global growth strategy, recently expanding its presence with a large-scale flagship store in Shanghai.
Against this backdrop, the current controversy carries significant strategic implications for the brand. In the past, brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, and Dior have similarly faced debates in China, where differences in cultural interpretation have escalated into broader public discussions.
In global markets—particularly those where national identity is closely intertwined with historical memory—even work in the realms of design and art is rarely received as purely aesthetic. Instead, it exists in close proximity to political and cultural sensitivities.
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