On June 8, French fashion house Carven announced the appointment of Kai Nesselrath as its new Design Director. Nesselrath succeeds Mark Thomas, who exited the brand in April 2026, and is set to unveil his debut collection during Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 in October.
Summary
- Carven has appointed Kai Nesselrath as its new Design Director.
- Nesselrath succeeds Mark Thomas, who exited the French fashion house in April 2026.
- His debut collection will be presented during Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 in October.
- Nesselrath spent nearly a decade at Saint Laurent, where he served as Head Designer of Womenswear.
- The appointment marks an important step in Carven’s ongoing revival, which began in 2023.
A Seasoned Designer Shaped by Saint Laurent
Born in Rome, Nesselrath studied at Polimoda in Florence before continuing his education at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Roma and London’s Central Saint Martins.
After gaining early experience at Chanel, he joined Saint Laurent in 2016. Over the course of nearly a decade, he advanced through the ranks and ultimately served as Head Designer of Women’s Wear.
Commenting on the appointment, Carven CEO Shawna Tao said: “A new generation’s perspective on the world feels especially important today. The essence of Carven is a fresh and courageous creator’s spirit, and we believe Kai is uniquely suited to interpret and express it.”
Reconnecting With the House’s Heritage
Founded in 1945 by Marie-Louise Carven-Grog, known professionally as Madame Carven, the house occupies a distinctive place in French fashion history. Born Carmen de Tommaso, she was among the few female couturiers of her era, alongside figures such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Gabrielle Chanel.
By introducing comfort and freedom into the world of haute couture, Madame Carven captured the optimism and elegance of post-war Paris. Her creations attracted a loyal following that included Leslie Caron, Édith Piaf, and Michèle Morgan.
In announcing Nesselrath’s appointment, the company described the move as part of a broader effort to reconnect with the brand’s founding values: “Kai’s appointment marks an important step in Carven’s revival initiated in 2023. The ambition is to reconnect with the house’s founding vision from 1945: a distinctly French and inclusive approach to fashion, built on uncompromising creativity, product excellence and relevance to modern life.”
A New Chapter in Carven’s Turnaround
Carven filed for bankruptcy in 2018 before being acquired by ICCF Group, the China-backed fashion company that also owns Icicle.
Since then, the brand has been undergoing a gradual transformation. More recently, Louise Trotter played a key role in reshaping Carven’s identity as Creative Director. Following her departure, Mark Thomas continued to build upon the sophisticated and wearable design language established during their tenure.
Over the years, Carven has been led by a number of notable creative talents, including Guillaume Henry, Alexis Martial, Adrien Caillaudaud, and Serge Ruffieux, each contributing to the evolution of the house.
Leading With “Lightness and Optimism”
Speaking about his new role, Nesselrath expressed enthusiasm for the journey ahead.
“Excited to join Carven, with lightness and optimism.”
He added: “I love clothes, spaces and conversations that encourage breathing. It’s an honor to keep Madame Carven’s values alive. I am very grateful to Shawna for her trust and the journey ahead together.”
For Carven, the appointment represents more than a leadership transition. As the house continues its revival, all eyes will be on how Nesselrath translates the brand’s heritage into a contemporary vision. His Spring/Summer 2027 debut will offer the first glimpse of that new direction.
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